View from Stongde

Zanskar Valley: one of the last frontier’s for true adventure

It seemed that every stunning photograph or video I happened to see in Leh in the windows of travel agencies or on the screen inside the Tourist Information Office, belonged to a place called Zanskar. So it was a place that became etched into my brain, and I knew I must get there somehow. My … Continue reading Zanskar Valley: one of the last frontier’s for true adventure

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Trek report: Markha Valley

Known as one of the most popular and beautiful treks in Ladakh, I decided to hike the Markha Valley during my time in Leh. Popular because it's easily accessible, the trail is not difficult to navigate and it's one of the few multiday treks in the region that can be done entirely with homestays, rather … Continue reading Trek report: Markha Valley

Aru Valley

Aru Valley: Kashmir’s hidden mountain gem

Srinagar left me feeling like I needed to explore Kashmir a bit more instead of going straight to Ladakh, and so I headed to Aru Valley, a place not even mentioned in my guidebook. I’d hardly seen anywhere so green in my life, and it appeared like a landscape that belonged more in Switzerland than anywhere near India.

Dal lake sunrise

Srinagar: the contested jewel in Kashmir’s crown

The city had been exactly what I had imagined it to be and more; it was completely different to anything else I had seen on the subcontinent, the people were full of colourful and passionate conversation and the lake was truly beautiful with the background of the Himalayas faded under haze. Yet, I'd felt much safer than I perhaps thought I would, the media always driving a particular fear of certain places, and in fact, after I left I found myself telling people, "Go to Srinagar and spend time there," because only then can you truly understand it... Read about my time in Srinagar, Kashmir.

Exploring the chaotic beauty of Varanasi

Varanasi was the place that I imagined I would find India’s intriguing spirituality and most interesting of characters and I was not wrong. The city, with its holy people, it’s rituals, it’s maddening traffic, it’s delicious street food, it’s suffocating alleyways and it’s annoyingly frustrating boat touts and rickshaw drivers, was my favourite place yet.

Seeing the Taj: take one and two

That big, beautiful, white building that sits next to the pyramids on most travel posters. The one thing you can’t leave India without seeing. The Taj Mahal. I was very excited to see it but I did wonder if perhaps it might not be as grand as I’d imagined after seeing so many pictures of … Continue reading Seeing the Taj: take one and two